Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.
The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.
“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.
The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.
The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.
It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.
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